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Recently I was looking to mount an Aimpoint to one of my AK’s. I had several options available to me,
including the well-known Ultimak railed gas block, and the Texas Weapon Systems AK Dogleg. Rather than bolt a bunch of rails onto this particular AK at the expense of increased weight, I decided to utilize something that worked with the built in scope rail. Enter the Midwest Industries AK scope mount.

Midwest Industries makes several versions of this mount that allow you to pick something that best suits your application. I chose the version with the integrated 30mm ring – this would also save me the additional expense of purchasing both a railed mount, and a scope ring to affix the Aimpoint to the mount.


Quick Specifications

• Total weight of 6.4 oz.
• Hardcoat anodized 6061 aluminum and melonite coated steel construction.
• ADM fully adjustable locking lever.
• Retails for $109.95.

Overall feel and design of this mount is that it is a solid piece and crafted well. There are obvious areas where material has been milled away to create as lightweight a mount as possible. The mount itself does not exhibit any flex or twisting, and I would say is among the beefiest of AK side rail mounts on the market today. This is not to say the mount is overly big – rather the contrary, it is fairly small, and gives you exactly what you need. No more, no less.

The biggest point of contention I have found regarding this mount is with the round holes bored into the riser arm. Some folks do not find them “aesthetically pleasing” to the eye. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder as they say, and I do not find them unnerving myself, rather the contrary. I especially like the innovative use of the American Defense Manufacturing (ADM) locking lever, which is a great improvement over the older Combloc style locking interfaces commonly found on AK scope rail mounts. The ADM lever allows for a large margin of tool-less adjustment and should fit just about any size AK rail out there. I tried this mount out on a variety of AK’s, real steel and airsoft, and it fit every single one with only minor adjustments needed in some cases. Personally I feel ADM mounts are every bit as good as LaRue Tactical mounts are – if not actually better because they do not require tools for making adjustments, which make them more field friendly than the former.

The other really great feature this scope mount brings to the table is how incredibly low it sits over the rifle. As you can see from the photo on the right, there is the barest of gaps between the dust cover and the sight. Obviously this allows for excellent co-witness as well. While co-witness is only an secondary consideration in this day and age, more attention should be paid towards cheek-weld, which this mount lets one accomplish without hassle.

Once mounted, the scope mount is rock solid and does not wiggle at all. The caveat being that you have properly adjusted the mount first, of course. The ring portion of the mount is equally solid too.

Repeatability

A primary concern for most would be whether this mount allows for repeat return-to-zero should it be removed. I can attest that it will – provided you haven’t made any adjustments to the locking nut. Obviously one should adjust the mount first, then zero it to their rifle, after which you can mount and un-mount it to your hearts content without fear of losing zero. Of interesting note, I was able to swap the entire assembly from one AK to another without having to adjust the Aimpoint at all. The MI AK scope mount does situate itself perfectly over the center-line of the rifle, so that is most likely is the contributing factor. Within the world of airsoft, the side rails varied wildly in width and tolerance, save for the real steel rails I have personally mounted myself.

Summary

I have been using this mount for the better part of a year now and mounted to a variety of AK’s. Overall I am very pleased with it and its performance and quality. I have not developed any criticisms or complaints as of yet, although some would obviously balk at the price, and perhaps the aesthetics might displease others. Price notwithstanding (quality gear ain’t cheap), I personally find the aesthetics suiting to the rifle. Many have asked me how the MI mount compares to another well-known AK mount – the RS Regulate series of AK mounts. I would personally posit that the MI mount is superior – but I could be partially biased – even though I have owned both types now. I prefer the cleaner lines, and the ADM locking lever of the Midwest Industries mount myself. I greatly dislike that RS Regulate has chosen to step away from mounts that feature integral rings, for example. Rather, they have modified the design to where you now attach a scope ring or mounting bracket via a few screws to the main body of the mount. This has introduced a formerly unknown failure point, and I have sheared the screws off once already on my RS Regulate mount during a carbine class. Until they return to an integral one-piece design, I can’t really recommend them as an option anymore, and would instead recommend folks look strongly at the MI mount if they’re considering a side rail mounted option.

I have been receiving a lot of requests to review my new chronograph purchase. While I have been quite busy with other projects, I managed to squeeze in some time to give this a proper in-depth review.

I’m actually unsure who the original manufacturer of this chronograph is, though I suspect it might be Amp Tactical. You can in fact find this chrono branded by many different entities, including Evike, Swiss Arms, UFC, and more. Depending on where you shop, price can range from $50 – $120. It is available in two colors: black or tan.

External Appearance, Features and Observations

A brief summation of features:

• Measures ROF (Rate Of Fire)
• Measures power in Joules
• Custom Set Your BB weight and caliber
• Measure from 1 FPS to 999 FPS /MPS
• Backlit Digital read out
• Auto Shut Off feature
• Tripod mountable
• Customizable memory settings

The body of this chronograph is built of plastic that is mildly textured and ribbed in a pattern not unlike a P-Mag. I would not say the plastic quality is on the same level as Magpul’s however, as it feels thinner and probably more prone to breaking should you abuse it harshly. The overall design feels solid enough, however, and isn’t like holding the creaking plastic mess that is the Tokyo Marui FAMAS. The shoot-through tube is anodized aluminum and features a removable thread-in “cone” that is made from polished aluminum. There is a standard 1/4″ tripod mount underneath that is fortunately built of metal as well. Overall weight is extremely light – I estimate around 12 oz. total weight, certainly no more than 16 oz.

On the front is a small LED display with a simple 3 button arrangement that leaves little doubt as to their functions. The LED display is backlit by default, and is easy to see in direct sunlight or pitch dark. You can switch the backlit display feature off, but it is far easier to read the display with it on.

One of the really nice features of this chrono is the ability for total cordless operation. There is an internal rechargeable battery built into the unit, and it can be recharged with the included AC adapter. I have left this unit on overnight and the charge level still showed that it was ‘full.’ So the good news is that it appears it can be operated for at least quite a few hours without fail. The advantage of cordless operation is obvious – this definitely opens up possibilities for use in the field, far from power sources. Being that the unit is also highly compact and takes up a minimum of space and weight is another bonus for field use.

Operation

Operation of the AMP Tactical chrono is sublimely simple. It has often been called one of the most user friendly chronographs on the market – a claim I can agree with. While it includes a brief instructional paper on method of operation, I did not find it necessary to consult it. Out of the box one simply presses the power switch and proceeds to start shooting. You may or may not have to set it to your desired unit of measure, however. Mine was set to Meters Per Second (MPS), rather than Feet Per Second (FPS.) Switching between measurement units is intuitive and easy, and can be done in under 5 seconds or less.

Additionally, one can calibrate the chrono to specific BB weight, and size. So if you want to set it up for 40g 8mm BB’s, it is entirely possible. I suspect you could possibly gauge it all the way up to a .68 caliber paintball round, though the shoot-through section is on the small side for paintball use and you’d likely break a ball inside if your aim isn’t true.

Accuracy Testing


I tested the readings of this chrono against another unit I own, a real steel PACT 2, which is a considerably more expensive unit, albeit with some drawbacks – such as the ability to only work in direct sunlight, being much larger, and having miles and miles of connected wires slaved to a control unit. Side by side testing confirmed the accuracy of the AMP Tactical chronograph was nearly identical to within +/- 1 FPS. I proceeded to test all of my airsoft rifles and pistols to see whether the readings on the AMP Tactical chrono were the same as my recordings with the PACT 2. I am pleased to say they were all spot on to a T.

In summary, I am very pleased with this chrono. It is accurate, lightweight, compact, and eminently portable. If you do any tech work at all, you will need a chrono. If you don’t do any tech work, knowing what your gun is doing FPS wise is important, and it can be the difference between knowing whether you have a field legal gun or not. As a field admin or referee, having a portable chrono such as this would be a valuable asset and save time and questions for both parties in the midst of an OP should a chrono check be required.

Thus far I have not seen any strictly negative qualities – Look to the future for an update once I’ve owned this for a year or two and we’ll see how she’s held up over time.

For the past 4 years I have been using the Real Sword Dragunov SVD airsoft rifle. It has quickly become my favorite and most utilized AEG in my personal collection. In order to actually use this rifle at our local fields, I had to participate in the Spokane Airsoft sniper course. This is an important course primarily designed to teach the safety aspects of using 400+ FPS rifles. Additionally, one is required to perform several sniper specific activities such as long distance shooting and proficiency, proficiency with a pistol, an undetected sniper stalk, and reconnaissance. All in all, it is a good primer for what being an airsoft sniper is all about.

Basic Features

One of the most obvious things you will notice about the Real Sword SVD is the external appearance. This rifle resembles the real steel SVD in a fashion not replicated by any other manufacturer. Dimensionally, materials, and fit and finish wise, it is a 1-to-1 exact match. Even the weight is extremely close:

Real steel SVD weight (without scope): 9.4 lbs.
Real Sword SVD weight (without scope): 9.0 lbs.

That’s a mere 4 ounces of difference! Total approximate weight with a real steel POSP 4x24mm scope (weight 1.55 lbs) is 10.55 lbs. This makes it fairly lightweight in the realm of DMR setups – especially compared to an M14 EBR which can weigh upwards of 15+ lbs. with a scope! Having owned an EBR setup in the past, the M14 feels like an ungainly pig in comparison to the SVD. The other thing that is immediately apparent about the SVD is the length of the rifle. At approximately 48″ total overall length, this is not a short rifle at all and those who work in environments that have restricted movement will find themselves disadvantaged (more on that later.) The outer barrel is approximately 24.4″ long, with an inner barrel length in stock form of 690mm. Latter models of the SVD, such as the current SVU, have featured slightly shorter barrel lengths.

The SVD has an integral mounting rail on the left side of the receiver for the fitment of a huge variety of scopes that have a SVD mounting bracket. In addition to being optics-ready, it also has an tangent style iron sight arrangement that is identical in operation to that found on the AK series rifles, albeit with much larger range gradients. In order to effectively use the iron sights properly, one has to remove the cheek riser, an operation that takes all of a second to complete.

This rifle begs for a real steel scope, so one should install such. I have experience with a few of the replicas out there and can attest to their utter lack of quality and high probability of failure. A real steel POSP or PSO scope will set you back at least $239 from reputable dealers. For airsoft purposes, one does not really need much more magnification beyond 4x, so I have installed the 4x24mm POSP scope on this rifle. This is a very versatile magnification, I feel, and other companies have experienced great success with straight 4x magnification, such as the legendary Trijicon ACOG. The POSP scope also offers a true quick release platform as well, so one could conceivably swap between say, a red dot platform (on this gun, whyyyy?), to a NVG setup, should they so

desire. You can read more information regarding the 4x24mm POSP scope here.

The Real Sword SVD is a semi-automatic only AEG. It can be tripped into full auto, however, with the gearbox unjamming bracket that can be found inside the receiver. This is not something that can be done with a magazine inserted, however, and is only there to facilitate unjamming – a very handy feature as it turns out. Occasionally, as is the case with semi-auto and AEG’s, you will experience a gearbox jam. To fix this, remove the magazine, depress the unjamming bracket while simultaneously pulling the trigger. You will briefly fire on full auto while the gearbox clears the jam. Fortunately, jams are mostly infrequent, but they do occasionally happen. It kind of makes the whole operation of the SVD more MILSIM, I suppose, because you would have to attempt to clear the jam or transition to your sidearm anyway.

Magazine capacity is a generous 96 rounds – more than enough to get the job done. Magazines are built from real SVD mags that have been gutted and fitted to run the 6mm BB platform.

All the metal components of the SVD are built of steel – it is in fact the same steel that is used in the real steel version of the SVD, and many of the components are converted SVD components too. The receiver is a one-piece milled unit, and is an inflexible tank. Overall this rifle is very tight, with no wobbles, creaks, or shifting of construction. It feels solid and designed for abuse.

The furniture is the same as the real steel versions, being a nicely lacquered plywood laminate of particular toughness. Overall It has proven very durable and resistant to scratches and dings and the other generalized abuse I have thrown at it. The battery compartment is found within the forearm area, and can neatly house up to an 11.1v stick lipo. I have switched my connections out to Deans on this particular rifle. The removable cheek rest is made of laminate and padded leather. It features a quick release mechanism so one can easily transition from optics to iron sights should this become necessary.

Internally, the gearbox is a proprietary Real Sword design. You will not find any upgrade or  aftermarket parts on the open market, save what you can find from Real Sword. Fortunately, this is not a detrimental mark against the SVD, as the internals are all very high quality and the rifle is already built for running high FPS. Real Sword, in fact, now sells an M170 power drop-in spring for these rifles. Many others have already experimented and shown the rifle to fully be able to handle an 170 power spring with no problems. On my example, I am running a Guarder SP-150 spring for 510 FPS with .20g BB’s.

Out of the box, compression was excellent, and the shimming was perfect. All Real Sword AEG’s are test fired before shipping from the factory, and you get a nifty little specification certificate for your particular rifle showing its FPS and Joule ratings at the time of testing. I typically do a complete disassembly and check on this rifle at the end of every year before putting her away for the winter. I have yet to replace a single part or fix compression or shimming, nor have I experienced any notable FPS loss or degradation of performance. Other than the Guarder SP-150 spring, the gearbox internals are stock. The stock barrel and hop up bucking will be satisfactory for most, but in my case I am seeking to gain the highest degree of accuracy possible out of this platform. With this in mind, I have replaced the inner barrel with a Prometheus 690mm 6.03 EG stainless steel tightbore barrel and a Raptors Tactical RTX “Maple Leaf” (update: I have since switched to a custom installed R-Hop, which has massively improved the performance over the RTX) hop up bucking.

The Hop up chamber is a unique design that features micro-click adjustments for fine tuning your hop up. It operates in a counter-clockwise fashion (to increase hop up.) The little nub on the back indexes into the gearbox, preventing the hop up chamber from twisting or turning inside the gun. You can fit pretty much any Marui style hop up bucking into the hop up chamber. Inner barrel to outer barrel fit is very good, and I haven’t had to wrap the inner barrel in tape or the like to decrease vibration or shifting.

Overall this is a very high quality AEG. I would call the appearance svelte – elegant, even – but others may disagree. It balances extremely well in the hand, and is lighter than some similar rifles in its class. There are very few AEG’s that can match the range of this particular rifle (especially with the new installation of the Raptors Tactical RTX Hop Up) in our local area.

Reinvention of Tactics

Operating with the SVD is a unique experience. Being of such a long nature, it requires a slight reinvention of your tactics – even more so if you’re transitioning to the platform from short-barreled-carbines. Initially, I found the long barrel to be problematic – the SVD doesn’t port well when carrying in the low-ready like an SBR does. Over time and use, I found that I came to prefer the long barrel for an important attribute that I had initially overlooked: it allows one to snake it through the brush or other obstructions for a clear shot, while otherwise remaining concealed and/or in cover. There have been many airsoft OP’s where I have stuck that long barrel through a small 3″ hole and taken foes out from afar without revealing my position. The long barrel also forces you to increase your distance from cover or when operating along walls (which is something you should practice anyway as hugging cover too tightly makes you less maneuverable.) It has also proven particularly useful for bracing against trees, branches, etc. as field expedient supports. Knowing what I know now in the employ of the SVD, I wouldn’t trade the long barrel for a short one if the option was given to me.

Disregarding the low-ready carry position for obvious issues, I found carrying the SVD to be best in the high ready position, muzzle up at the eye line, or with the buttstock tucked under the elbow, with the rifle held level. The addition of a Blue Force Gear padded VCAS sling helps greatly for long treks or to cinch the rifle behind my back to free up my hands, or for sidearm transitions. At 10.55 lbs, this is easily the heaviest rifle in my collection but the balance is superb and makes it less noticeable over the long haul.

Eventually, I also wound up purchasing a separate load bearing gear setup for my SVD. Originally I made due with my “assault” rig, which was outfitted with HSGI universal magazine pouches. This worked for a time, but was ultimately a hassle as the SVD mags tended to get buried in the HSGI pouches and I was carrying more equipment than I really needed for the role. I wound up starting with some Russian made SPLAV SVD pouches and built upon that with a Tactical Tailor MAV system. The end result was a complete vest setup that weighed in at a lightweight 15 lbs. fully loaded. I think I have this setup pretty well sorted out now for my particular uses. It is designed to get me through long range shooting, limited CQB, and provide enough sustained ammo for suppressive fire. I am planning on adding some trip-wire capability to the Thunder B’s for when I’m holed up in a structure or area as an early-warning / threat deterrent, and if the flow of the event permits it.

The other important consideration to my tactics was the addition of a sidearm. Spokane Airsoft’s rule set for snipers is that no shots be taken under 50′ if you’re shooting over 400 FPS. This absolutely necessitates a back up weapon for close in distances (otherwise, plan on dying a lot.) I have made different attempts for the “pefect” secondary weapon, including short-barreled AK platforms, a Vz. 61 Skorpion, various pistol platforms, or nothing at all if I’m feeling cranky. In the end I have come full circle and stuck with a pistol. Modern GBB pistols are certainly accurate enough to participate in the 0-50′ arena, and are even better suited in some instances to CQB environments. My sidearm has saved my proverbial bacon more than a few times as I’ve transitioned from long range environments to short ranged ones. Some would argue that a airsoft ‘sniper’ need not engage at all in the CQB realm. I disagree with this belief for a few fundamental reasons:

1) I don’t really play the role of a true sniper – nor do most ‘snipers’ in airsoft actually. In fact, I would liken my role as more akin to that of a Designated Marksman Rifle (DMR.) More often than not, I find myself roaming or rotating from squad to squad lending that “extra reach” for the team that simply can not get the range on the enemy. With 96 rounds on tap, the Real Sword SVD can whittle down an opposing fire team in seconds should they fail at basic infantry tactics. The guys who strive for that perfect “one shot, one kill” rule from 1000 yards out are obviously not going to be interested in this.

2) A secondary consideration is the ability for long range suppressive fire. 96 rounds of semi-automatic firepower firing back at ranges most AEG’s (or LMG’s, for that matter) can’t reach is another tactic to be used when you’re assisting your squad in closing in on the enemy. Technically speaking, this means you’ve got some pretty good stand-off distance between you and the enemy. This also reaffirms the use of the DMR methodology in my opinion.

3) I never wear a ghillie suit. I had one once. I wore it once. Then I sold it. I found it hot, heavy, cumbersome, and completely incompatible with any of my load bearing gear. Every little piece of jute managed to tangle and interfere with my fastex buckles or velcro. I collected more dirt, sticks, and leaves than a landfill. It was annoying. If I were to use a ghillie suit, it would be a low profile one based off the Cobra Hood system from Tactical Concealment Systems. Until then, I am content with not wearing a ghillie and have not found the lack of use to impinge my efforts one iota. Rather, I feel I have escaped becoming a heat casualty more than most who wear them.

4) I have operated in a strictly reconnaissance fashion before, but have usually felt this rather ineffective in the larger scheme of things mostly due to the limitations of the radios we airsofters use. There are many times where I am simply so far out there that I can’t receive or transmit a radio call period. Until the airsoft community as whole invests in higher quality long range radios, this will always be a problem.

Some tactics I commonly use with the SVD

1) I find it highly effective some times to roam as a solitary unit at the peripheral of an enemy force and pick a few off to the point where they’re interested in me, then retreat a hundred yards or so to draw them into an ambush from concealment, whereupon I will repeat the procedure until:

a) all enemies are dead or exhausted from chasing me.
b) I have reached the safety of my team mates who can assist in the above.

2) The rest are trade secrets 😀

How does cold weather effect the AEG?

First thing that feels the bite on a standard AEG is the rubber components inside of it. You will notice your hopup loses a significant amount of its effect due to hardening of the bucking. This is where it is beneficial to have a softer bucking like a Guarder 50% or a Lonex 50%. They are very difficult to install due to being thicker and less durable than the others but resist cold weather very well.

Next you will see inconstant FPS due to the piston head o-ring hardening. When you fire your AEG, the ever present friction of the o-ring on the piston head rubbing on the cylinder walls causes enough heat for it to soften – it requires a burst, and not semi-auto to reach this effective pliability. This is also dependent on the lube used inside the cylinder. If it is runny silicon and not grease ( like Sil-Glyde) it will perform more consistently but will wear the o-ring faster. Not much faster, but it won’t have a hardened film to fight upon firing.

The next thing you will notice is cold drains NiMih/NiCad very effectively. Even if there is no firing. A NiCad loses 9% charge daily and in the cold can pull 4x on that. NiMih isn’t much better. Lipo will only lose 5% in cold weather.

Next and final thing, I suggest not using any upgraded V2 gearbox despite the brand in the cold. Over the last 8 years I have seen a significant increase of cracked V2 gearboxes from cold weather. This is due to the excessive load from 110+ springs on the relatively thin front clip of the V2. The first gen KWA wouldn’t last 20
rounds in weather below 20*f and were a huge money maker at my former place of employment. G&P, CA, KWA and King Arms are a guaranteed “will crack” in extreme cold and other brands are a 50/50 in a V2.

Ways to prevent cracks

• Down grade your spring.
• Hand warmers and tape (not advised.)
• Getting a winter gun, i.e. a V3, V6, or V7 gearbox.
• Not playing in the winter.
• CNC machined gearbox shell.
• Radius + sorbo + shock transfer system (not a guarantee)
• Get spare gearbox shells and don’t give a damn.

Here’s a few things that are good to have or know if you’re interested in becoming an Airsoft tech – or at least be better able to diagnose and fix your own problems:

• Mechanical aptitude. You need to be comfortable with tools and with mechanical things.You need to have a steady hand and a little finesse. I had a friend who loved to paint plastic model aircraft. Problem was his hands shook so bad during the process that they looked like a paint-by-numbers gone wrong. He had a passion for it, but not necessarily the physical ability. Kudos for trying though.

• The ability to perform basic airsoft maintenance. Compression fixing, shimming, cleaning, gutting, replacement of parts, installing upgrades, etc.

• Willingness to work on some truly awful sh*t. We all know that one guy who has a pile of donkey turd AEG that he continually tries to welfare his way into working existence, but is of course too broke to actually pay for tech work because he spent his lunch money on a COD season pass…. Whether you’re working tech for a living or as a part time side job, or just as a service to friends and acquaintances, you’re going to be accepting some less-than-stellar AEG’s to work on. You may ask yourself why you’re accepting this pile of fecal matter, but since you’re desperate for experience and work, you’ll take it anyway and bludgeon it into working. It’s how you learn.

• Tools, tools, and lots of tools. There are quite a few tools necessary for just basic work. Even more for fully detailed tech work. Some of these can be expensive, and many are certainly required such as a chronograph and a metric allen wrench set. There are also a few tools you may custom modify to suit your needs or be used for AEG’s with particularly hard to reach places or other untold difficulties. Here’s a picture of just a few of the tools necessary, some stock, some modified – there are many, many, many more not pictured:
  
• Understanding of the various Airsoft systems and how they work. You need to be able to see the relation of the gears to one another and understand how they function. You need to be able to be able to examine the various internal parts and diagnose the problems accordingly. This requires an attention span and a keen eye. You’re going to be looking for small problems on small pieces, and sometimes these things aren’t readily visible upon first look.

• Patience, and more patience. You will probably tear apart a gearbox 15 times and spend nearly six hours on the problem before finally figuring out that the tappet plate is binding and causing all your issues. After this lesson, you will learn to check all parameters before reassembly.

• Learning from others and absorbing whatever information you can find. There is a lot of information out there. Some of it is good, some of it is bad (Teflon tape: bad!) You’re going to have to apply yourself and sift through the good and bad. It definitely helps if you have someone experienced and well versed who is able to teach you a thing or two. Finding stuff out on your own is a reward in and of itself as well. And of course, there’s no substitute for actual experience and working on real hardware.

There are of course more things to examine and take into consideration, but I think this article gives you the gist of it without boring you extensively ; )